Aaron and Ethan turned 9 yesterday, and we had a busy and fun-filled day. The boys woke early and were outside the apartment trying out their new scooter and skateboard by 7:00 am! After a quick breakfast we got ready to leave for the old part of Pune to meet a tour guide at the Shaniwar Wada fort. We had a few moments of worry as our normally very punctual driver, Deepak, was running a bit late. He turned up on his motorbike laden with bouquets of flowers for the boys' birthday... so sweet.
Aaron and Ethan with Deepak
For the next few hours we explored the old part of town, visiting several of the pre-eminant Ganesha pandals set up in the narrow streets. The Ganesha festival is getting close to its finale, and the number of people visiting the shrines was huge - it was busy, bustling, and a somewhat overwhelming sensory overload! We were easy targets for people bestowing tikka on foreheads in exchange for money (see the first video below). The only issue is that we'd had our foreheads daubed before we were able to explain we had no money to give (we were a little worried about pickpockets so had left our wallets behind). The boys were also the source of quite a bit of interest because of their fair hair and complexions - they had their hair fondled, their cheeks pinched, and several requests for photographs. They are getting better at fielding this level of interest, but Sam was a bit shocked when a guy on a motorbike going in the opposite direction to that we were walking reached out his hand to touch Sam's face - Sam ducked at the last minute, but was a bit taken aback (see the second video below).
One of the 'tikka' guys!
Selling garlands and offerings for the worshippers who are visiting the pandals.
Someone got 'tikka-ed!'
The Ganesha in this shrine is fighting a blue demon that represents the British!
This was VERY crowded and claustrophobic - the Ganesha idol was HUGE!
This courtyard was a quiet little oasis that allowed us to catch our breath.
An old temple.
Sandals outside the temple
Hardworking cow
How this kid could ride this bike I don't know... but he managed!
The chillies smelt so beautiful!
The gates of the Shaniwar Wada - the Peshwar fort in Pune.
Relieved to be back in the car (with AC!)
We returned home for lunch and a bit of a nap, but it wasn't to be. One of the local community pandals were taking their Ganesha idol on a parade to be immersed. Drumming and firecrackers accompanied the procession.
In the afternoon, the boys had soccer practice. We rushed home afterwards, had quick showers and then headed straight out to the Sorriso Italian restaurant with some of our new neighbours. Chef Jacopo had prepared a surprise for the boys and their friends. They got to make their own pizzas! We had a great evening - the kids played on the playing field outside the restaurant while the adults ate, drank, and chatted. We finished the evening with birthday cake and candles.
Yesterday I visited Nimgaon Bhogi, as I do normally on a Wednesday, but on this occasion I was given the opportunity to meet some of the mothers of the girls I teach to find out more about their way of life. First, we got shown around their cooperative dairy (set up 7 years ago by Ashta No Kai, the NGO I am working with). The women are helped to buy cows with interest free loans. Any surplus milk they get they are able to bring to the dairy room attached to the women's centre. Samples are taken to assess the milk's quality and they are paid accordingly ... Apparently buffalo milk has the highest quality but lowest yield, whereas the white desi (local) cows have lower quality milk in greater quantity. Many of the cows they have are hybrids with European milk cows. The milk is collected by a large dairy who process, homogenize and pasteurize the milk for sale. The co-operative dairy has really supplemented their incomes. The other main source of income for the women is farming....
Visitors to our apartment in Pune could quite easily spend their time relaxing in comfort (some might even say luxury). Our apartment is plush, even by Western standards, and we live in a part of town that has very western malls/restaurants/bars within only minutes. To be honest, you could be forgiven for thinking you were somewhere in Europe/North America at times. But obviously, you don't have to go very far to leave that all behind. Pune may not seem like an obvious tourist destination, but there are some pretty interesting places to visit. Dad, Claire, and I tried to explore the city and see some 'real life' India to get a flavour of the history and culture of this part of the world. We visited the Aga Khan Palace (where Gandhi was imprisoned for a while), several temples including the impressive Pataleshwar cave temple, the old potter's colony and its adjacent Hindu/Muslim community in the Kasba Peth, plus its local fish and meat market....
We are finally here! It's been a bit of an epic 36 hours with a lot of contrasts. There is the stark contrast between the luxurious transport and accommodation we have experienced set against obvious poverty and hardship on the streets of Pune, but it has also been a period of very contrasting emotions. I have experienced moments of excited curiosity to downright exhausted "WTF have we done?!!!" moments, and just about every emotion in between! The vlog I've posted is rather long (about 10 minutes) but click here for a link to some photos and short video clips that show some of what we've experienced in our short time here already!
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